“So many people live within unhappy circumstance and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of man’s living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun. If you want to get more out of life…you must lose your inclination for monotonous security and adopt a helter-skelter style of life that will at first appear to you to be crazy. But once you become accustomed to such a life you will see its full meaning and its incredible beauty. …in short… hit the road. I guarantee you’ll be glad you did.”
-Alex McCandless (from “Into the Wild” by Jon Krakauer)
Note: Many of the photos included in this report were taken by Chris and Amy, a couple I had met along the route. Thanks to the both of you for sharing your photos with me and other readers, and for suggesting I write up my own trip report. I appreciate all you’ve done for me and I really enjoyed your companionship out on the trail.
Sunday July 2
I was up and packed by 7am and then checked out of the hotel in Snowmass Village. The sky was deep blue with some clouds, and I saw a few hot air balloons that had just lifted off the ground. I had some breakfast and then drove 45 minutes to the West Maroon Portal parking lot to start my hike. I got all my gear organized and talked with a group of four next to me who also planned to do the Four Pass Loop. I was all set to go except for putting on my hiking boots and locking up the Jeep. However, I couldn’t find my boots anywhere and soon realized I must have left them at the hotel. Since I had no cell phone reception my only options were to drive all the way back there or to do the hike in my running shoes. I decided the boots were too nice and expensive to leave them at the hotel, so back to Snowmass I went. Being a little anxious to get on the trail and somewhat annoyed that I was behind schedule, I was driving a bit fast. Three miles from the hotel I get pulled over for speeding in a construction zone! I tried to think of an excuse to give, but knew that speeding and lying to an enforcer of the law on a Sunday was not a good way to start my vacation. So I admitted to the officer I knew I was speeding and accepted the ticket, and then slowly proceeded on to the hotel. (At first I didn’t want to include that part because it’s embarrassing, but I feel that it plays a part in things to come that day, as well as one of the many lessons I would learn from my trip.) Thankfully the boots were still in the hotel room.
Two hours later I am back to the WMP parking lot. It’s about 11:30am and I had a small hike from the parking lot to the actual trailhead. The morning sun was slowly fading into the clouds, and I knew I missed some good photo opportunities of the Maroon Bells. I ended up losing the trail in a field of rocks and decided to blaze my own trail through the weeds and down to Maroon Lake. I was starting to lose confidence in myself for this trip seeing as how I couldn’t even follow the trail to the trail!
I found the lake and made it to the concrete path before any park rangers noticed me. It was a zoo along the lake, and even when the path turned to dirt there were still plenty of tourists to navigate around. There was a strong line of people all the way to Crater Lake (~2 miles) and many of them were friendly and impressed by Zion carrying his own pack. It started to get hot out, so when we made it to Crater Lake we took a short break for lunch and so Zion could cool off in the lake.
Maroon Bells from Maroon Lake. You can see the storm clouds coming in from the west. Photo by Chris.
Some darker clouds began to roll in so I decided to get a few more miles in before it got bad. About a half mile later I came to the first of several creek crossings. It didn’t look too deep, but it was swift with uneven footing. I decided to make 2 trips across knowing that trying to balance all my stuff with my heavy backpack would be too tricky. I took off my boots, put on my sandals, grabbed the camera bag, and grabbed my poles. Halfway across the creek I slip and drop everything in my hands. I was able to grab my poles and camera, but I wasn’t fast enough for my boots. By the time I had regained my balance the boots were 10 yards downstream, around the corner, and then out of sight. Even on dry land there was no way I could catch them, and the bushes along the sides made it impossible to even follow the creek. My hiking boots were gone for good, I couldn’t believe it. I turn my attention to my camera and discovered that it had submerged enough to break it. It wouldn’t turn on or anything, even after taking the battery and memory card out and drying everything off. So 2.5 miles into a 26 mile loop of what is considered one of Colorado’s most beautiful hikes and I am without boots and my camera. Meanwhile a storm is starting to set in and the only option I had at that point was to take shelter. I put on my raingear, but I was already wet from the creek so it wasn’t doing much good. At this point I was beginning to think that this hike was not meant to be; it had to be one of the worst experiences I had ever gone though. I left my boots at the hotel, got a speeding ticket going back to get them, then lost the boots for good down the creek, broke my camera, and now I’m stuck in the middle of a thunderstorm freezing cold. For weeks up until this point, this hike was all I could think about – all the trip reports and all the pictures I saw depicted an amazing trail with indescribable beauty. Even though I prepared for the worst, I never imagined myself in such a situation. I pretty much decided that I’m not good enough to hang with the real CO backpackers, and from now on all my vacations would be at a nice sunny hot beach within 100 yards of a hotel. I really just wanted to go home.
West Maroon Creek where I lost my boots and broke my camera. Photo by Chris.
While I was sitting out the storm, a couple of guys came through and took shelter with me. I explained what had just happened and they mentioned that another girl in their group would be coming along and maybe I could borrow her boots. I appreciated their help but honestly didn’t have any hopes that her boots would fit or even if she would let me wear them. A few minutes later the girl, Vasanta, and another guy joined us. She immediately offered her boots for me to try on. Not only did they fit, but they also felt very comfortable. Vasanta insisted that it was OK for me to borrow them for my hike (she was heading in the opposite direction so didn’t have much further to go to reach the TH) and her sandals would be enough to make it back. We exchange contact information so I could return her boots when I was done, and then they proceeded on down the trail. I stayed under the trees a bit longer waiting for the storm to leave completely, and tried to decide my next move. Even though I now had boots to do the hike, my mind was still set on going back and finding a hotel, and maybe just doing a couple small day hikes instead. The day had been a total disaster (not to mention expensive!) and my spirits were crushed.
By the time the rain had dissipated it was 4pm and I knew it would take a few hours to get back to the Jeep and drive to Glenwood Springs for a cheap hotel. So I put on my backpack and started walking downhill. I noticed Zion was not following me and I turned around and called his name. Instead of being right beside me like normal, he was lying down on the trail facing the opposite direction. He looked back at me and it was a moment I will never forget. There was no way he wanted to go back to the Jeep and the look he gave me was as if he couldn’t believe I was giving up. I don’t know what it was that changed my mind other than the way he looked at me, but I thought that perhaps he knew something I didn’t and I shouldn’t give up so quickly. So I decided to give it another shot and at least make camp for one night. I could always go back the next day if things didn’t get any better.
Back at the creek I decided to cross at a little wider section where the water wasn’t moving quite as fast. I threw Zion’s pack across, along with my poles and “new” boots. Now I had no choice but to cross myself since I couldn’t lose Vasanta’s boots too. I was a little nervous, but I made it through. By now there was actually a bit of sun starting to peek from behind the clouds. Another mile later up the trail I came to the 2nd creek crossing. It was a little deeper, but I crossed it using the same method as before and doing it without taking too much time. I knew if I thought about it too much then I would scare myself out of it. (If you can’t tell already, I have a slight irrational fear of water.) The sun was completely out now and starting to dry my stuff. You could still see the storm off in the distance, as well as a faint rainbow. It was an amazing sight, but with just my emergency disposable camera I opted to hold off taking any pictures. But thank goodness I still brought the disposable!
I ran into the group of guys I had met in the parking lot and talked with them for a while. They’ve got a nice campsite set up, but I decided to go another 15 minutes on up the trail. I find a little spot just above tree line overlooking the valley. It was a little uneven and muddy, but I didn’t really care. Zion and I had some dinner and watched the sun as it set behind the mountains. I was thankful it didn’t rain overnight because my tent was in a low-lying area that would have pooled with water, and because being above tree line at night with lightening isn’t something I wanted to experience.
Monday July 3
I woke up to a beautiful sunrise. It was cold, but as the sun got higher it not only warmed me but also the valley below. We were soon on the trail and close to our first pass, West Maroon Pass. There were a few small snowfields to cross and a decent trek up alongside Belleview Mountain before reaching the pass. We got up there and were greeted by the sights of the valley we had just come up on the east and Purity Basin on the west. It was an amazing view and I was already glad I didn’t turn back the day before. Soon after me, a guy name Nate joined me on the pass. He was vacationing with some friends, a married couple (the girl who just found out she was pregnant – talk about a tough hiker!), all from Minnesota. They had plans to do the 4PL, then something in the Collegiate Peaks, and Longs Peak if time allowed. After talking with Nate for a few minutes, another couple joined us at the top, Chris and Amy from Kansas. They all would come to play a big role in my whole trip experience.
West Maroon Pass. Photo by Chris.
I snacked for a while and took in the sights before heading down into Purity Basin and what is considered to be part of the wildflower capital of CO. As I walked into the valley I saw all sorts of flowers I had never seen before. Even though it wasn’t quite peak season for them yet, it still felt like I was walking through somebody’s garden. Between the deep blue sky, mountain fresh air, the wildflowers, and the landscape, I felt like I was in a dream. To experience it in person was far better than any picture or postcard would suggest.
Purity Basin looking down towards the Crested Butte area. Photo by Chris.
Maroon Bells from the opposite side. Photo by Chris.
There were only a couple of miles between WMP and the next pass, Frigid Air Pass, so I did not lose much elevation. It was still a steep climb up to FAP but since it was pretty short it wasn’t that bad. FAP was definitely another beautiful place to be. They say it’s the prime Ansel Adams photo opportunity (for those with decent cameras, I’m sure), and it was nothing short of spectacular. You could see the wildflower/Crested Butte area on the west and the backsides of the Maroon Bells on the east. It was more windy and cold up there, justifying the name Frigid Air. Again, Chris and Amy, Nate and his friends were all up there at the same time. We all concluded that with the incoming clouds that it was time to start heading down towards Fravert Basin and into the trees. It was a steep climb down, but a few switchbacks made it easier. Just as I hit tree line it started to lightning and hail. Zion and I took shelter under some big trees for about 45 minutes until it started to let up, then we were off again. The trail led down into Fravert Basin and followed the North Fork River for some time. There were several small waterfalls leading up to an awesome 300 foot waterfall called King Falls. At the bottom of King Falls there is an area of pooled water and some small tree-covered knobs that offer good views of the falls and pool – a perfect spot for setting up camp.
Fravert Basin and North Fork River.
Another mile or so I catch up to Chris and Amy at a creek crossing. It was deep enough that rock hopping wouldn’t work, so again I put on my Chaco’s and cross the creek. We all came upon a campsite designated for horses and perhaps chuck wagon suppers. None of our trail guides mentioned this, and after struggling to find where the trail continued on we figured that we must have missed the main trail. Chris and Amy then saw what appeared to be the trail. We back tracked about 50 yards and got onto the correct trail which took us to the 3rd big creek crossing, North Fork River. I knew that if I took my backpack off one more time to put on my sandals, then I would not have enough energy to put my backpack back on (man, it was starting to get heavy!)… so I decided to ford the river in my boots. Plus another thunderstorm was closing in and I wanted to get across and back into the woods for shelter. This creek was the deepest yet, almost to my waist, but it was slower moving, and it actually felt good on my legs. Zion had done an amazing job on the trail and crossing all the creeks, and his companionship was awesome. He never once showed signs of not wanting to continue on. At times he would run on up ahead, but would look back to make sure I was following close behind.
This storm lasted quite a while, long enough that I decided we would set up camp for the night at the next good location. This was when I met John and his dog, Denali. He lived in CO and was attempting the loop in 2 days. I wished him luck as he pressed on in hopes of making the next pass that day. Finally the rain let up enough that Zion and I were able to hike another 30 minutes to a campsite just after the fork which led to Geneva Lake. Still being relatively close to the NF River I was concerned with possible bears, but at the same time I was too tired to really care if one came along. Go ahead bears, eat my food, just don’t wake me up.
Tuesday July 4
Knowing this day would be long hard one I tried to get up earlier, but my sleeping bag was so comfortable. But the sun was out and I figured if that last 2 days were any indication, then it wouldn’t last long and I needed to get going. The trail immediately started a steep climb up and I had to take quite a few rest breaks, but as I got higher the views of Fravert Basin just kept getting better. The trail started to level out as it came to a shelf that had had a small pond, several creeks, and numerous open spots excellent for camping. You could see the trail heading up to the 3rd pass called Trail Rider Pass, and it was long and steep. There were quite a few snowfields and Zion took full advantage of lying out in the cold snow while I rested. I met up with John and Denali here as they had camped out along the shelf and then took their time with breakfast. My calves were killing my by the time I made it up to the pass, but I made pretty good time despite all the stops I took. Trail Rider Pass was definitely my favorite pass out of all of them because of the views (plus it helped that the sun was out this time). From the pass you could see the large shelf that we had just come up on the west, and on the east you could see Snowmass Lake. The lake was a deep turquoise color and what I would consider the ideal alpine lake. It was only 9:30am and already the day had been more than I ever imagined. I was almost overwhelmed with the scenery and didn’t even know where to look.
Route up to Trail Rider Pass. This was one of my favorite sections of the trail. Photo by Chris.
Creek along the shelf leading up to Trail Rider Pass.
Zion cooling off with Snowmass Mountain in the background.
Chris and Amy soon met up with John and I on the pass, and Nate wasn’t too far behind. Despite all of us going at our own pace and doing our own thing, we still found ourselves crossing paths and celebrating each pass together. We could see clouds coming in from the west and knew it was time to start moving on if we wanted to hit the 4th pass that day before the weather took over. I really didn’t want to leave, but I also couldn’t wait to see what was on up ahead.
Zion taking in the sights from Trail Rider Pass. Another excellent photo by Chris, and currently the background for my computer.
Snowmass Lake from Trail Rider Pass. Photo by Chris.
Descending down towards Snowmass Lake we had to cross several more snowfields, some getting pretty steep. It sure didn’t stop Zion from laying out in them and sliding his belly across to cool off. At one point I really thought he was going to slide all the way down the mountain. One side note: as we were hiking down the trail, several fighter jets flew by (possibly F-15s??) and that was cool! It reminded me that it was the 4th of July and how great it is that we have our freedom here. So back to the hike… It took longer than what I expected to reach the lake, and it was a lot bigger than I thought too. We then came to what was probably the most technically difficult section of the trail – two very steep and slick snowfields separated by a large pile of loose rocks. Both Zion and I struggled a bit here because in a few places we would fall through the snow (Zion especially because the snow would get over his head when he fell through). The rock pile required some scrambling, and it didn’t help that they were a little slick. Between balancing with my heavy backpack, one hand holding my trekking poles and the other hand helping Zion over the rocks, I honestly don’t know how I crossed without wiping out or starting a rock slide down the side of the mountain and into Snowmass Lake.
Crossing a small snowfield while descending from TRP. Photo by Chris.
Zion and I along the trail. Photo by Chris.
Another picture me and Zion. Photo by Chris.
Once past this section the trail became a little less steep and we were able to relax. The trail led us down into another creek valley, and the 4th big creek crossing. A beaver dam had created a large pond where the trail was supposed to cross, so we were diverted to another section of the creek where we could get across. We ended up picking a spot that was pretty deep, but the water wasn’t moving too fast and it looked pretty safe. We had all caught back up with each other (John and Denali, Chris and Amy, Zion and myself), so it was nice to have other people there in case something happened. And Chris was gracious enough to carry my backpack across while I took Zion’s pack across. The water was above my waist, but it felt good. Zion went through without a problem, and then proceeded to run all over the place with Denali and get everyone even more wet.
After a brief rest to dry off and grab some food, we all started the long ascent up towards the 4th and final pass, Buckskin Pass. The weather was starting to threaten, and we could hear a few rumbles off in the distance. Since John was from CO and was familiar with the weather, he figured we would be alright if we pressed on. As he later told us, his chances of getting hit by lightning were reduced 75% if we were all up there at the same time (and I would have someone else to blame if I did get struck!). It was another steep climb and so I took quite a few breaks, but I kept them short knowing there might not be much time. Thankfully the weather right where we were never let loose on us, but you could see all around us where rain was coming down. So we continued on up to the pass. It was around 1:30pm when we got to Buckskin Pass, and knowing it was pretty much all downhill from there we took our time to enjoy the scenery and rest. From here you could see the sides of the Maroon Bells and Pyramid Peak, as well as the last pass from which we came (including Snowmass Lake and Snowmass Mountain). It was another great view, but unfortunately it was completely overcast and in some places you could see it raining.
Zion on snowbank on Buckskin Pass. It wasn’t until I descended below the bank did I realize he was on the edge with about 15-20 foot drop-off.
Four miles to Maroon Lake and it was all downhill. It was a very long and steep descent from Buckskin, so doing the 4PL in the opposite (counterclockwise) direction would have been brutal. Going down into Minnehaha Gulch you could start to see the north sides of the Bells. Here’s where I could really see the dark purple/red colors of the rock that give them their names. We passed through several smaller creeks and saw more wildflowers along the trail. I would have liked to try the trail off towards Willow Lake since I was so close, but I was also pretty set on eating real food and sleeping in a warm bed for that night. Those last 4 miles seemed to take forever. Finally Crater Lake came into view and I knew it was only another two miles down to Maroon Lake. From Crater Lake to Maroon Lake was probably the hardest part for me. The rocks were really starting to hurt my feet (and I could tell Zion’s paws must have been hurting too), and the downhill pounding made every step painful. It didn’t help that I put Zion back on the leash and we kept tripping over each other. Eventually we started passing more and more tourists who were going back and forth between the two lakes. It was encouraging to see civilization again because I knew we were getting very close, but I was also annoyed by the noisy mass crowds. I already missed the solitude of the Four Pass Loop.
From the official trailhead back to the parking lot was another half mile, and this time I decided to just walk the road. Being all dirty and staggering down the road I’m sure I looked pretty pathetic to all the passerby’s, but I didn’t care. Finally back at my Jeep, Zion crashed at my feet while I took a short nap. I packed everything up and we took off towards Aspen for some food and drinks. I was able to take one last good look at the Maroon Bells from my side mirrors as I drove away… I hate goodbyes! I’m already looking forward to doing it again soon!
Final Thoughts
For as crazy as the trip started out, it was definitely the best one I have ever gone on. It turned out that forgetting my boots at the hotel and getting pulled over for speeding delayed me long enough that I was able to run into Vasanta on her way down. Had I been at the first creek crossing two hours earlier as scheduled and given I would have crossed at the same point and slipped, then I’m sure I would not have run across someone as generous as Vasanta to lend me their boots. I was also very grateful for Zion making me continue on even when I didn’t want to and for being such a great trail buddy. Everything seemed to be going wrong for me, but in the end it actually made the trip even better. Knowing I didn’t have my digital camera to document a lot of trip, I really took the time to enjoy the beauty of the hike and appreciate the moment. It was also great getting to know everyone else I met along the trip and hearing their stories. Chris and Amy were especially kind in offering to send me some of the pictures they took, and they had the great idea of me posting my trip report too.
